The NEW and IMPROVED Coyle (RAC) Phaser model:

The latest Coyle Phaser models now include six sounds. The P1 and the P2 will now have two stuns, three phaser sounds and overload.

 Both the Pistol control knob and the Phaser One thumb wheel will work to select these six sounds, and the light is synced to the sound. In this model, when you fire the stun effect the light flashes and stops when the sound does.

The Phaser One has been redesigned with:

The Phaser 1 grill has moved forward to a more accurate location and the Plexiglas bar now sits against and slightly under the back edge of the grill and it looks very much like the rising grill sight. This bar is still the trigger for the Phaser One’s sound and light effects.

Furthermore, the machined aluminum knob on the P1 has now been moved and it sits higher and straighter on the body as well as had the power meter lens and the power indicator jewel.  We also remove the two extra screws that held the P1 bottom cover on. We still choose to use an Allen socket head screw to hold this cover on and not a round head flat screw on the bottom cover, as we feel it looks much more high-tech and in keeping with the feel of this recreation.

For the cast metal parts part on the Phaser, we are using a very fine pewter and not white metal. The P1 grill, the P2 radiator fins, the center rail of the P1, The P2 crystal chamber knob and the engraved ten turn knob on the P2 are all manufactured from pewter. This gives a smoother finish that will accepts the chrome plating process much better for the parts that we chrome plate like the Grill.

The P2 muzzle, trigger button, front plate and the P1 knob are all machined aluminum pieces that are lightly polished for a matching sheen. We continue to use machined brass for the P1 muzzle and the P1 mock release button on the side of the P2.

Letter to the Fans:

Let me first say that I understand the desire to compare my work with the other Rodd.com offerings, however everyone needs to realize that these pieces are for sale on the same site for a reason. Kits are great for those that have the skill and connections to get them built right. The Coyle Phaser offers a complete package for those that don't want to fuss with getting their replica built and/or want a fully realized prop recreation. I am aware that there are inaccuracies in my older models of the TOS pieces that I offer at Rodd.com. I have already taken major steps to bring my model in line with the current knowledge on the prop while respecting the information I took from the "real" prop references.

I don’t fault customers for wanting what they “believe” the original pieces looked like, but the fact remains that there is no single reference for this piece. Rodd.com and I brought the Coyle Phaser back into production based on the same models and techniques I was using when I was “asked” to leave the Star Trek prop business. The first few pieces we have sold so far are by no means just a test run, but rather a re-birth of the Coyle Phaser. I have already begun major enhancements and improvements to my model and its manufacture to ensure that customers get the best model possible for the price. If folks want the “definitive” TOS piece, then I can honestly tell them that neither my model nor the Rodd.com kit is the best choice. What I offer is a great feeling, multi-featured recreation of WHAT WE SAW on the TV. A dead on recreation of the prop used on the set is not something most folks (including myself) want today.  After all, at times TOS got away with horrible vacuum formed Phasers with silver painted parts (check “Shore Leave”.)  Other pieces on the shows, even heroes, were almost as bad. The majority of the Fan base today (present company possibly excluded) couldn’t tell a hero from a vac copy, but they do know what they think they saw on the screen. I try to strike a fair balance between obsessive accuracy and on screen image with my Phaser.

That being said, let me answer some of the comments in this thread and provide some more information for those that want the facts.

My model body was designed with a screen used background Phaser model on hand. The screen model dictated a number of unique contours and profiles that are not found when you simply reference 2-D sources. I firmly believe my Pistol has a very accurate “Coke Bottle” shape and the whole piece is almost totally accurate in its shape.

As for the Phaser 1, I am aware on my older model’s shortcomings, and I have already reworking the piece to take into account new smaller electronics and batteries that we are using. The Phaser 1 grill has moved forward to a more accurate location and the Plexiglas bar now sits against the grill. The bar is still the trigger for the Phaser’s effects, but it now sits slightly under the back of the grill and it looks like the rising grill sight. Furthermore, the machined aluminum knob on the P1 has now been moved and it sits higher and straighter on the body. With the space savings from newer electronics available to me, I have also been able to remove the extra two of the screws that held the P1 bottom cover on my original models. Granted, I still choose to use an Allen socket head screw and not a round head flat screw on the bottom cover, but I feel it looks much more high-tech.

For the cast metal parts part on the Phaser, I am using a very fine pewter and not white metal. The P1 grill, the P2 radiator fins, the center rail of the P1, The P2 crystal chamber knob and the engraved ten turn knob on the P2 are all manufactured from pewter. This gives me a smoother finish that accepts the chrome plating process much better. The P2 muzzle, trigger button, front plate and the P1 knob are all machined aluminum pieces that are lightly polished for a matching sheen. I continue to use machined brass for the P1 muzzle and the P1 mock release button on the side of the P2.

My latest Phaser models will include six sounds. The P1 and the P2 will now have two unique stuns, three unique phaser sounds and overload. Both the pistol control knob and the Phaser one thumb wheel will work to select these six sounds, and the light is synced to the sound. In this model, when you fire the stun effect the light flashes and stops when the sound does.

On the plastic issue, I want you all to know that there is no real difference between the Rodd.com offerings. We both use the same stuff; granted different brands, but we both use pressure cast polyurethane plastic.  I simply put in black pigment so if you damage the paint you will not see a pasty white plastic under it.

Ever hold a “Real Phaser”? That thin handle is too small for any hand. Want to see for real, check the shots of the actors firing them. The actors had to curl their fingers back and hit the trigger with the tip of their fingers. I realize that to some it might not look “right”, but in this case “size matters.”  I use the fatter handle so it will feel the “right” size in your hand. I’ve learned over the years of building these things that one of the reasons everyone enjoys hold and playing with my models so much is that they “FEEL” real.

This same viewpoint holds for the setting dial insert. The Franz Joseph piece just plain looks more real: 9 settings and OL .  The FJ artwork looks like a round drum showing the top set of numbers, its just far more realistic looking if you ask me. After all, what good is a photocopy of a ruler with the numbers starting at say 11 and running up to 22 going to do you?  Yes, that is what they used, but no one ever saw them on TV. This is just another case of accuracy defying simple logic.

Let me conclude this rather lengthy post by saying that I appreciate all of you past, present and future business. I have made many changes that you will see in the next wave of the Rodd.com piece. I hope these will enhance my model’s accuracy and desirability both as a replica and as a collectable. For those of you that may have purchase a Coyle Phaser in the first run of Rodd.com pieces, I will be offering you a couple of options that I hope will give you a chance to benefit from these chances. Rodd.com and I will be contacting each of you as soon as we have the details worked out. 

Rich

Some Update Pictures:
Phaser Left Side	Phaser One Bottom	Phaser One Top
This is a picture of a real Phaser One, shown to show how close I came to recreating it.

The Main Story